Wednesday, 16 July 2025

Insel Sylt

Sylt is the most northerly island off Germany’s North Sea coast, accessible only by trains that run along the Hindenburgdamm causeway built in 1927 to connect with the mainland. Its landmass is 38 sq. miles in area, a little larger than the Isle of Sheppey off the Kent Coast (36 sq. miles) but with less than half the population. It has a long history as a resort, noted for its extensive sandy beaches and a bracing summer climate. Through trains run from Westerland to Stuttgart, Hamburg, Berlin and Köln. Based on the address of the postcard publisher, we can assume that this is a group of holidaymakers photographed on their arrival at Westerland on an unseasonably wet day. Resolutely cheerful, most seem determined to make the best of things. The only clue as to the date of the image is the absence of Nazi insignia or symbols on the station that might indicate the years 1927 to 1933.

During the Third Reich, Sylt marketed itself as the first German resort to be declared Judenfrei (free of all Jews). Hermann Göring had a palatial beachside holiday home on Sylt. It seems the spirit of Aryan suprematism lingered longer on the island than elsewhere. In 1951 the voters of Westerland elected a new Mayor with a dark past as a member of the Waffen SS. During the war Heinz Reinefarth rose to the rank of Gruppenführer and troops under his command were responsible for innumerable atrocities in the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. Reinefarth escaped retribution by offering his services to US military intelligence and returned to civilian life as a local politician and lawyer. Only last year a video emerged featuring a group of affluent young residents of Sylt chanting anti-immigrant slogans. Widespread condemnation followed but the suspicion remains that the breezy, sunny air of Sylt continues to carry the stain of right wing extremism.




 

Tuesday, 1 July 2025

Coldstones Cut

 


Coldstones Quarry is a North Yorkshire limestone quarry almost entirely concealed inside a hill (Greenhow Hill) and unobservable from passing roads. In 2006 Heidelberg, the operators commissioned a public artwork from artist Andrew Sabin to provide a trio of spectacular viewpoints of the quarry activity. It was constructed and opened in 2010. Access is from the B6265 between Pately Bridge and Skipton. Follow this link for otherwise unobtainable views of the totality of the scheme. A strong wind blew in our faces as we made the short but steep path from the car park to the summit where it intensified. Limestone dust particles sand blasted our faces as we struggled to hold a cameraphone while the wind threatened to whip our glasses off. The narrow approach to the viewpoint is a classic piece of compression, arrow straight between walls of massive stone blocks. About two thirds along the way there are branches to left and right offering a spiral climb to elevated platforms. Arrival at the viewing apron brings panoramic views over the entire quarry workings. And all the special pleasure of observing the exposed limestone terracing and heavy machinery in action.  Sabin’s sculpture work is often highly coloured with a biomorphic presence and doesn’t immediately connect with what we see here until we consider his interest in containment and release along with the organic spiral forms. Aerial views with the viewing platform at the base echo the phallic presence of the Cerne Abbas Giant. Only 15 to 20 years of reserves remain after which it is planned that the quarry will revert to its ‘natural state’.